Arriving at the Issaya Siamese Club, it felt like visiting a friend's home because it is located at a normal middle class residential district in central Bangkok. Inside the rather unassuming front gate is a lovely tropical garden where a historical century-old Indo-Portugese colonial bungalow sits.

Not to be misled, Issaya is not really a clubhouse, but the flagship restaurant of internationally renowned celebrity Chef Ian Kittichai. Chef Kittichai specializes in modern fusion Thai cuisine. He does not only tantalizes the tastebuds but also entertains with visual impact.  For example, the Gai Aob or Volcano Chicken (a flambé, actually), flaming alcohol is poured onto pieces of roast chicken to simulate an erupting volcano effect. The dessert, Kanom Tung Taek is quite a spectacular finale to a hearty meal, with clashing chocolate ball, flowing mist over colorful daubs of mulberry and guava foam.

However, some of these dishes are strong on theatrics but a bit disappointing on taste. Once the flame had subsided, the Volcano Chicken is rather ordinary with a bitter after-taste, probably caused by overuse of alcohol for the flame.

Simpler dishes actually linger longer on the tongue and mind, such as the Salad with Crispy Noodles which is visually pleasing, flavorsome and lightly crisp without feeling too oily. The dessert Jasmine Panna Cotta with Coconut Ice Cream is also very refreshing after a heavy meal.

The restaurant may want to consider standardizing the way food are served. On the night of this review, some dishes were served individually, while others were expected to be shared by 2, yet some were shared among 4 or more. It was quite confusing for our group of international delegates sitting on 3 long tables. It was especially awkward for 2 persons who may not know each other very well, to share a fairly large portion of Mussaman Lamb Shank (which, by the way, was really delicious and tender).

Issaya Siamese Club was obviously more comfortable serving intimate dinners to couples or groups of 4-6 people. For MICE groups of about 50, organizers may want to make seating arrangements of 4 or 6 to a table, instead of having long tables. For more information, visit: www.issaya.com